The shaker opens the
way to using juice, but it’s not the only tool we need for that. That is,
assuming we want to use fresh juice. And yes, we will want to use fresh juice.
It makes a huge difference. Stock up on lemon and lime if you want to make
cocktails which call for lemon or lime juice. If you’re out of citrus, then
stick to cocktails that do without.
A lot of cocktails
turn to lemon or lime. Mainly because they build on a combination of sweet and
sour for a drink with a nice contrast.
We’re being practical
here, so we don’t need anything really nifty here. But doing without any
juicing equipment is not advisable. Sure, you can squeeze a fruit part with
your hand. But it gets messy and it’s not the best way to get the most out of
your available fruit.
I have worked with a
simple citrus reamer for ages, and it works just fine. There are certainly
other options: hand presses, lime squeezers, lever-pull juice extractors,
electric juicers… just go with what you prefer.
If your tool of choice
manages to hold back all of the seeds and most of the pulp, and you don’t mind
that some of it slips through, you can use the juice straight away. If you’re
aiming for an unblemished drink, you’ll need to fine-strain the juice between
squeezing and using it. Another option is to double strain the drink when
pouring: this is done by holding a fine strainer between the glass and the
shaker.
One thing of note is
that some recipes will call for ‘the juice of half a lime’ or similar. That’s
not very convenient. Fruit doesn’t come in one size. The way you extract the
juice will also influence the amount you can gather. On this I wholeheartedly agree
with Robert Hess (of DrinkBoy.com and
the video series The Cocktail Spirit).
Try to translate any
recipe into clear-cut amounts and measure.
When thinking
cocktails, nothing is more iconic than preparing your drink by shaking. Not all
cocktails are done with this method: some are built, layered or stirred. There
are even less common methods like blending, throwing and rolling. But as
already explained in the bar spoon post: when you want to mix and there are
opaque ingredients, the correct method would be shaking. Ice is used again of
course, for chilling and dilution purposes.
Shaking will usually make
your drink misty, with a froth of fine bubbles on top. That’s because by shaking
you are causing aeration: you are forcing air into the drink. Furthermore,
small shards of ice will break off the ice you are using in the shaker. All
this has a visible effect, especially just after serving. Over a few minutes time
this mist will clear up (probably still leaving your drink opaque, because of
the ingredients used).
How much ice to use
could depend on your ice stock. If you don’t have much to spare, you could get
by with as little as three small ice cubes. But if you have more to spare, don’t
hold back: chilling and preparation time will improve. You can fill your shaker
half or 2/3 with ice. Just make sure that there is still room to move around:
you don’t want to over dilute and you can’t aerate the drink if there’s little
air to begin with. I prefer to add the ice first, because it will pre-chill the
shaker and prevents splashing incidents when you add the ice last. The ice will
also make comforting crackly sounds when you add the liquids. However, if you
prefer to add the ice last (because this counteracts dilution), that’s
perfectly acceptable as well.
There’s a baseline
for the time you need to shake: 10 seconds for normal cocktails, at least 20
seconds for cocktails with ingredients that are harder to blend. But I would
not advise counting out the time. The most important clue comes from your
senses: you will feel the shaker get colder. The shaker should frost over on
the outside before you stop. Yes, that means that your hands will get very
chilly: there’s some suffering involved in making a good cocktail.
So what kind of
shaker to use? Well, there are several possibilities. There’s the Boston shaker (glass and tin), two tin shaker, pitcher shaker (a relic from the past for making several cocktails
at once) and the Parisian - or French - shaker (a two part shaker without
a built-in strainer).
However, I would
suggest to start off with a Cobbler
shaker.
That would be the well-known
three piece shaker that has a cap and built-in strainer. Obviously, one of the
advantages would be that you don’t need a separate strainer, because you can
pour directly from the shaker.
It’s easy to use, which means you can also let
guests make their own cocktail, if they wish. From an aesthetic viewpoint, I
also prefer this one (although that’s very personal, of course).
Most bartenders in
the UK and US will use a Boston shaker. It has the added bonus of gaining a
mixing glass with your shaker. It is also faster in opening, pouring and
cleaning. However, I assume you’re not very hard-pressed for time when making
cocktails at home. And a separate strainer will also need cleaning, so that’s
not where you get much of an advantage.
Does it matter how
you shake your cocktail? Well, it certainly does. Cocktail experts agree on one
thing: you should definitely put some effort in it. Going back to Harry
Craddock’s pointers in The Savoy Cocktail
Book we will find this, which is often quoted:
4.Shake the shaker as hard as you can:
don’t just rock it: you are trying to wake it up, not send it to sleep!
But apart from putting enough energy
into the shaking, is there a certain style, technique or pattern which gives better
results? Well, there’s no general consensus there. I seem to get the best results
when I shake diagonally (by holding the shaker at an angle to the actual
shaking motion). But maybe I’m imagining things. Just find a technique which
works for you: part of the fun of shaking is that there are so many ways in
which people do it.
I like to end here with one of the
most influential cocktail experts: Kazuo Uyeda. He has perfected his method of
shaking for decades, which is called the hard
shake.
He certainly believes that the way
you prepare your cocktails has a profound impact on the result. And he’s also a
stern supporter of the Cobbler. In his own words: ‘If you realize how important
shaking and mixing are, you will naturally notice that only the three-piece
shaker could work out.’
Looking at the current state of the
bar, it’s time to add our first liqueur. There is an extremely large number of
them to choose from, so which way to turn?
Adding Cointreau/triple sec/orange
curaƧao might be a good choice, because lots of recipes use a variant of these
orange flavoured liqueurs. However, we’re bound to stumble upon that sooner or
later, so no rush. I’d rather take a sharp turn here and introduce a liqueur
that steeps the bar in cocktail history and opens up the repertoire to some
true classics.
Although maybe a bit harder to find
than the more popular liqueurs, it’s well worth it. If you’re half serious
about mixing drinks, this is one of the liqueurs you should include in your
bar.
Maraschino (pronounced marr-a-SKEE-no), also known as marasquin, is a relatively dry,
bittersweet liqueur that’s made of Marasca cherries. It’s very different from
other cherry liqueurs or cherry brandy liqueurs.
It’s also one of the few liqueurs
that’s distilled; the whole cherry, including the pit and stem, is used in the
distillation process (after being crushed).
Maraschino hails from the city Zadar,
the capital of Dalmatia (which is currently in Croatia). Industrial-scale
production was started in the 18th century by the Venetian merchant
Drioli, followed suit by Luxardo and Vlahov in the 19th century.
After World War II, all companies were forced to retreat to Italy. Only Luxardo
still exists today, which chose to continue its production in Torreglia (in the
Veneto region).
It is widely viewed as the premium
brand for maraschino, but tastes will differ, obviously. When tasting several
liqueurs, my girlfriend commented that the Luxardo smelt somewhat like methyl
alcohol. I had to agree, I guess… but it still mixes nicely, though. I wouldn’t
drink maraschino straight, but some people apparently don’t shy away from that.
The straw jacket for the bottles was
a traditional Venetian way of making sure that bottles would survive a long sea
voyage.
So what can we
actually make with maraschino? It is an ingredient in classics like the
Martinez (precursor of the Martini), the Aviation and la Floridita Daiquiri (that
would be the version Hemingway preferred). Other notable cocktails are the
Casino Cocktail, Charleston Cocktail, Imperial, Last Word and Opera.
Since we have a
limited bar at our disposal, I’d first like to introduce a simple cocktail that’s
undeservedly quite unknown.
Humpty Dumpty Cocktail
This one is found in
Hugo Ensslin’s Recipes for Mixed Drinks. The original version has a 2 : 1 ratio
for vermouth versus maraschino, but I prefer the recipe according to the
CocktailDB: the vermouth has to work hard enough to get the maraschino under
control.
Most notable is the
lack of a base spirit: it is only aperitif wine with liqueur.
It’s really worth a
try, especially if you’re an Alice fan like me (Through the Looking-Glass).
5 parts dry vermouth
2 parts maraschino
glass: cocktail
Stir with ice and strain into the
glass.
The colour is quite nice… all due to
the vermouth (because the maraschino is colourless). Stirring the cocktail keeps the liquid clear, as is easily seen by the near perfect reflection of the wall of a neighboring building.
In a way, this mirror
quality makes this cocktail Through the Looking-Glass (And What Alice Tasted
There).